QASS Buildguide
BOM
- 4x M3x10 screw
- 4x M3x4 threaded insert
- 4x 5x50mm feet
- For the PCB - 2x 5pin header - optional: 2x PCB holder (printed, two parts each) + 2x M3x5 screw - 2x 8pin hotswap sockets for the MCU and pins - 1x Miao MCU
- Stabilizers - Depending on layout you use - BAE/ISO/ANSI Enter: 1x 2u - long right shift: 1x 2u - 10u spacebar: 1x 7u or 8u (depending on your spacebar) - Splitspace: 2x 2u or 2x 3u
- Top case
- Bottom case
- Plate (metal or printed)
Firmware and Flashing
The PCB can only use the Miao MCU and therefore only FAK-Firmware. See how to use Github Codespaces to setup FAK to compile your keymap at this guide.
The correct config to use in FAK can be found here: Github Technofrikus
A good start for customizing your keymap is this example FAK Macropad config
Building
Overview
This is the PCB in its (kind of) final state. Not all details are in the render (and there is stuff that isnt needed anymore), but this is the goal.
Diodes
Solder all the diodes like this. Dont forget the ones on the Lowbar PCB.
Breaking the PCB
Lets do the most fun part now. Get yourself a 2mm hex key, put in the hole of the break-away-taps and turn it in the direction of the spacebar. The other direction often does not break off that cleanly.
Clean the small and sometimes sharp rests of the broken off parts with a file or some sandpaper.
MCU Hotswap
Because the MCU is directly below a switch, we need it to be hotswappable to access the pins for desoldering or soldering.
Note
The Miao/sockets are located on the underside of the PCB, on the side where the peach logo is located.
These two lower pins are not needed to be connected to the MCU. No need to put in hotswap sockets there.
But the top two are needed! And the 7 on each side of course. Cut the hotswap sockets to length and push them in. The holes in the PCB are big enough so the bigger metal part can be pushed completely in. Only the plastic part will be on the PCB afterwards.
Solder them in from the top/other side. Cut excess pins so they dont interfer with the switch.
Push the hotswap pins into the sockets. Then put the Miao on them and solder it. Start with just one pin and try to center the Miao as much as possible between the sockets. Otherwise the USB-port will not be super centered in the case cutout. Then solder the other pins.
Then bridge this solderjumper, otherwise one of the pins will not work as an input and the several keys on the top right (O,P,L, Enter etc) will not work.
Remove the Miao. We will put it again in later.
Lowbar-PCB
Lowbar-PCB is the small extra PCB for the low spacebar(s), the bigger other one is the Main-PCB.
Warning
Decide on the bottom row layout you want to use and put the (lubed) stabilisers into the Lowbar PCB first. It will be difficult to change them later (desoldering needed).
Please also solder the diodes on the Lowbar-PCB, you cant reach them later.
Note
If you are not certain if you want a different bottom row (and therefore stabilisers), you might get yourself some more hotswap sockets and use them instead of the solder-swapable headers that are provided with the kit.
These are all the options you have.
Add the 2x 5pin headers into the Main-PCB (not the Lowbar-PCB).
Note
If you are using the 10u spacebar, add the PCB holder like described below. If you are using another bottom row, you can leave them out, because the switches will hold the lowbar. If this is the case, just solder the pins on both PCBs now and cut them to length. The go the next step.
Add the top part of the PCB holder in the outer most switch cutout, from the top (the plate should not be there yet, I just took the picture with a finished build).
Then put the lowbar PCB on there (the side with the stars/space-illustration on is the bottom side), the pins of the headers should go into the Lowbar-PCB. Then use the M3x5 screws and screw them into the PCBholder. They cut their own thread.
Warning
Only tighten these screws a little. Otherwise they will destroy their own thread.
Now you can solder the pins on both PCBs and cut them to length.
Plate and Switches
Put the Switches through the plate and on the PCB and solder the switches.
If you are using a BAE, consider using switches with a lighter spring for the switches under this enter, because you will have to press two switches down together. Or you can use the same switch as the rest but remove the spring from the top switch (not the one in the stab). This also works.
Keycaps
It is probably easiest to put the keycaps on now. Later is also possible though.
Case
Put the case together and screw it together with the 4x M3x10 screws.
Put on the feet.
Enjoy.